Delicious street food, fresh coconuts, limitless hospitality, and penetrating sun-rays; this is just a peek into what Bryan and I have experienced and thoroughly enjoyed during our brief adventure in Côte d’Ivoire (CI). Being the shortest amount of time I’ve spent here in one visit, the time surely flew by, and as a result I am reluctant to leave. The fact that the COVID-19 pandemic had a minimal effect on the country makes us even less enthusiastic about the idea of returning to the US. Getting a taste of what it feels like to live in a non-pandemic again is refreshing and makes us hope for a rapid reopening of our community.

While masks are still required in most stores and public buildings in the city, you won’t spot a single face covering in the outlying villages around Abidjan, as these communities have seen a very small number of COVID cases, if any. Even within Abidjan many of the restaurants are outdoors, eliminating the need to wear masks, while social distancing is the number one preventative measure being taken. Many of the measures that were made into mandates in Washington state are already part of the everyday lives of the people in CI, which made the transition into a pandemic state even more seamless for the people here. Hand washing stations have also become prevalent, which helps curtail the spread of hand-to-hand germs and bacteria.

Zoumi and Bryan having drinks at a maqui

Being that the legal drinking age is 18 here, Bryan and I have been able to enjoy the beer selection brewed locally here in CI. While the Desperados are my personal favorite, a beer brewed with tequila aroma, likely from agave extract, Bryan is more partial to Bierre Ivoire, a beer brewed from rice which has a unique flavor profile, different from the traditional wheat, hops or barley beer popular in the US. At our favorite maqui (outdoor bar) just 10 minutes from our Airbnb, there is a woman with a kitchen stovetop who makes mouthwatering street food that pairs excellently with our favorite beers. During both of our visits, she has served us mutton, fried chicken, attiéké (a ubiquitous starch in CI, made from cassava), and alloco (fried plantains) - some of our favorite Ivorian dishes. The food and drinks for Bryan, my father, and I came out to just barely $10 per person, which almost made us feel like we were stealing from them. The knowledge that they have no shortage of customers eliminated some of the guilt we felt, but if this had been a US bar, we likely would have paid three times the price.

Zoumi and Bryan hanging out with the kids at the Koné compound

Each night we observed quite the crowd at the maqui which has loyal regulars, many of whom approached and welcomed us, giving the sense that a true community of friends existed. This community exists not just among the customers, but with the many servers who engaged with them as if they were there for the same sense of shared fun as much as to work. This interaction left us dreading not coming back to the maquis the next night and leaving our newfound acquaintances to their regular lives which seemed devoid of the tension we so often experience at American establishments.

Interested in experiencing Côte d’Ivoire for yourself? Join us for our New Year’s Travel with Purpose tour. Early Bird pricing now available!

- Zoumi

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A brief adventure